||These pages have moved to http://www.nwsprints.co.uk where there are no annoying adverts, pop-ups or spyware and it responds quicker too!
My Mallock before and after its rebuild. On the left is as I got
it in 1990 and on the right it's on it's way to the rolling road in 1998.
I bought it about 1990 from Simon & David Atherton in Stockport. It's a Mark 14b circa 1975-ish. It had been
used in Formula 1300 circuit racing by someone in Sheffield in the early '80s then
sprinted and hillclimbed a bit in the Northwest. I managed to win the ANWCC sprint
championship in '93 (admittedly not a vintage year) and came second in the combined sprint
and hillclimb championship in '99 after far too many DNFs caused by a couple of diff
failures, suspension failure, plug failure and faulty fuel pump. In 2000 I stuffed
it pretty comprehensively at Paddock bend at Curborough at my first event of the year
and spent the next two years, on and off, slowly rebuilding it.
|It's a typical clubman's spaceframe: 5/8th square tube with ally panels
pop-riveted on. It took about 1,500 rivets and I had to plug the original holes
with braze first so you can imagine it took a while. All the ally was bent over
pieces of wood - hence the "styling" is rather angular. It's obviously
low-tech, strong enough, too heavy, but infinitely repairable. I'm told the tail
section is non-standard as it is curved at the top - other 14 owners tell me theirs are
flat. At the scrutineer's request I put in a thicker diameter rollover bar - the
original did a fair job of protecting my shoulders but not much else. I also
replaced the top of the frame surrounding the cockpit and dashboard as it had got so tatty
over the years. It's got a couple of additional tubes keeping the rear axle away
from my back - imagine a rear-end shunt without them? Finally I added a
backbone/transmission tunnel linking the rollover bar to the bottom of the dashboard and
extending up the nearside of the footbox. This is all basically for safety reasons -
it supports the rollover bar better, restrains the propshaft and keeps the engine/box out
of the cockpit. After my front end impact at Curborough I am rather pleased that I
added that extra metal as the cockpit and footbox are almost perfect whilst everything in
front of the master cylinders is pretty crumpled - that is about a yard of crumple zone I
used up! Here are some pictures of the damage.
Mine is just about the worst looking Mallock around. I'm not particularly proud
of this, there's just always something more important to do, for example going to the
pub. As you can see on the other pages on this site the bodywork is just fibreglass
cladding. It's obviously not original with Mk17 side pods and you could fit a V8
under that bulge in the (Mk20) bonnet.
It's also been cut and shut a number of times to fit over whatever it sat on at any
particular time. I may cut it again over the winter to streamline it a bit. It is
fitted with a genuine Mallock high downforce nose at the front which makes a huge
difference - it used to suffer from tyre shredding understeer with the home made
nose I used to run.
Standard for a Mk14 - unequal length wishbones at the front and a 5-link back end, i.e.
trailing arms and a panhard rod. It has coilover sprint/damper units, inclined at the
front and vertical at the back. The dampers are Spax, rose-jointed at the
front. There is an adjustable anti-roll bar at the
front, which I now set on the stiffest setting with the high downforce nose
and rear tyres that are a bit past it now - I used to have
to set it full soft to minimize understeer when I had the small "Baitings"
nose fitted. Simple but effective.
The settings I have are a compromise between those on Bernard Collins and
Alex Graham (Mk.20's). As you can see there is quite a variation between
them - dunno
if they are appropriate but it is a place to start and better than
guessing. If anyone has some other suggestions, please let me know.
For the record, these are:
|Front ride height
|Rear ride height
||3/16" (at wheel rims or tyre walls?)
||1/2 degree -ve
||1/2 degree -ve
||7 - 7½ degrees
|Front damper setting
||8 (where 14 is stiffest)
|Rear damper setting
|Front spring rate
|Rear spring rate
||Haven't got one
||12 degrees + full Gurney flap
||12 degree including a kink on the trailing edge
that could be called a Gurney
||I have a couple that I alternate between as each gives up the
ghost. I'm currently running a home built 1350 crossflow (60 thou
overbore on a 1300 Escort) with Vulcan big valve head, 12.5:1
compression, twin 40s, Cosworth A6 cam, a 4 into 1 exhaust, lightened, polished and balanced rods
and rockers, steel posts, lightened iron flywheel. About
100bhp at the wheels is what you get. It revs nicely but doesn't
want to know below about 5000 rpm.
The other, whose bearings went missing at Aintree earlier this year, is
another home-built semi-short stroke cross flow. Basically that's a fancy name
for a Mk2 Escort fitted with a Lotus twin cam crank and pistons. The reasons for
this were to get more revs without the cost of a pukka steel one and to sit the engine as
low as possible. It has a Rallye Equipe big valve head, 12.5:1
compression, twin 40s, Piper 254 cam, a 4 into 1 exhaust, lightened, polished and balanced rods
and rockers, steel posts, ultra light steel flywheel and Cosworth bolts to keep it all together.
After all this, it does not feel a lot more powerful than the small
certainly does not rev as well (only about 7500 on a good day) but it is a
lot more torquey. Absolute power figures are pretty irrelevant, what matters is how much power is available
all the time you want to accelerate and how few gear changes you can get away with.
Being tight-fisted I use the same dry sump kit, inlet manifold, exhaust
system, rocker gear and distributor on both engines.
It's got a 2000E box with bullit ratios (very high first) and
shortened tailshaft and then a composite Ford/Minor 1000 4.2:1 diff. I ran a
standard Minor diff with no trouble for a couple of years, but in 1999 I broke two - so
maybe the 1600 engine is better after all! I've since got hold of a couple of
Ford/BMC composite diffs (4.2 and 4.55) (thanks to George Emmerson) and a set of
halfshafts to suit (thanks to Bernard Collins).
I tried a sintered clutch for a bit but didn't like the sharp take-up on
downchanges and, with limited power available, I find a standard AP organic
clutch spins the wheels as much as you need and lasts a couple of years for a
fraction of the bother.
It runs on 8" and 10" revolutions and the tyres are soft Avon hillclimb
slicks. The rears are A36s, but unfortunately they are about 8 years old and they do
age, the fronts are A40s new in 2000. I run them at 12 and 14 psi. I try to
run with the regulation minimum 5cm. ground clearance, though it is a bit higher at the
back which I believe is how they are meant to be set up. Brakes and steering come
from various Triumphs, from Spitfire to GT6. The rack is from a left hand drive
Spitfire turned upside down to get it low and to get the wheels to turn the same way as
the steering wheel!
There must be lots out there, but I have not found many on the web yet. Here are
some links to other sites, mostly just pictures. Let me know if you'd like a link: